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Mexico certainly does have its allure. Whether it appeals to your love of history, art and architecture, the overwhelmingly popular concept of siesta, or just the freedom to kick back in a hammock in a warmer climate, Mexico has its share of devotees. My first visit was in 1965, and at the age of fourteen I was impressionable enough to fall head over heels for the warmth not only of the climate, but of the people of Mexico as well. That love affair has never ended.
Both the Pacific and Gulf coasts have developed into heavily trafficked tourist destinations, and the beaches are a welcome sight for the sand and water deprived. There are many lovely, albeit overdeveloped resorts up and down both coasts. Cancun, Alcapulco, Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlan are very popular, and at one time, they were truly pristine, relaxed, and affordable. Until I discovered the beauty of the highlands of central Mexico, I too stayed on the beaches.
Central Mexico is richly laden with evidence of its history, and the highland's colonial cities represent this superbly with the richness of their architecture in a combination of Spanish American and native American styles. The state of Guanajuato is in the heart of Mexico, bordered by Jalisco on the west, Quertaro to the east, Michoacan just south, and San Luis Potosi on the north. Plains and valleys lie at 5,500-7,000 feet while surrounded by tall mountains. It is a region rich with agriculture which thrives on volcanic ash as well as nutrients washed down from the mountains. Beginning in the 1550's with the discovery of precious metals, this area became a prolific source for silver and gold. In the mid 1800's this was the birth place of the insurgents who instigated the Mexican War of Independence. Both Guanajuato City and San Miguel de Allende suffered losses and destruction during this 11 year war for freedom, but now both offer historical sites that represent pride and patriotism that powered the fight. An attitude of free thinking and liberty remains, along with the reminders of the price paid for that freedom.
Guanajuato City is strangely and delightfully unusual, small and romantic. Originating as a mining camp in 1554, it flourished as gold and silver was dug from the earth. At one time, the mines of Guanajuato provided one half of the world's total silver supply. Situated directly over a river and at the bottom of a deep canyon, the steep hillsides are covered with strikingly colorful homes. Driving is very stressful and difficult here, so walking is the recommended method of sightseeing. There is a series of 7 labyrinthine subterranean tunnels that snake underground and can be extremely difficult and confusing to comprehend, and parking can be a real nightmare.
Buses and taxis are plentiful if you want to explore outside the downtown area. One of the many must-see sights you'd need a taxi for is the Valenciana Mine and the Valenciana Church of San Cayetano next door. This church was built with the incredible wealth acquired by the owner of the mine. The facade is ornate churrigueresque baroque, the interior filled with fabulous art, stained glass, golden altars, statues, fine gold work, ivory, precious woods, and a very impressive pulpit.
This city is enriched with numerous historical buildings such as the Museum Alhondiga De Granaditas, the site of the first bloody battle for the independence movement. The Museo de Diego Rivera, birthplace of the renowned artist is open to the public and offers a small gift shop that offers prints of Rivera's work as well as that of Frida Kahlo, his wife and equally famous artist.
One of the most fascinating and gruesome exhibits was the Museum of the Mummies where real desiccated humans are displayed. Some of them are dressed up, sitting up, standing up, or lying in beds. These specimens are the result of an especially dry mountain air and the chemical mix of the soil that prevents decomposition of a small percentage of the bodies buried in this area. Even more gruesome is the rule that if a burial plot is not paid for within 5 years, the body is dug up and cremated. Prior to the building of the museum these bodies were simply propped up along a fence at the cemetery and left there until their relatives could come to get them. Thankfully (or maybe not?), the museum now uses these long-dead specimens to inspire the long lines of ticket buyers who enjoy the curious and macabre. Honestly, I nearly fainted while inside. Whether it was the altitude, lack of food, dense crowds pushing me thru this airless museum, or the mummies gaping quietly back at me, I could barely get out of there without hitting the floor. Consider the options of enjoying the lovely garden and fresh air outside before you buy a ticket.
An annual event held every October for two weeks since 1972 is the Festival Internacional Cervantino. This is a massive festival bringing people from all over the world to celebrate the work of Cervantes. It is imperative that you make reservations well in advance if you would like to attend. But, if you are a disorganized and impulsive traveler such as I, you will have to get your fill of Cervantes at the Museo Iconografica de Quijote. Here you will find over 600 displays honoring Quixote, including works by Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, Pedro Coronel, and Raul Anguiano. Murals, lithographs, pottery, eggs, and statues all representing the sad eyed knight of La Mancha.
The Teatro Juarez, a European-Moorish style theatre dates back to 1903 and is still used for films as well as theatre productions. It is a fabulous display of art, architecture, French sculptures, carved wood, and a glorious chandelier from Paris. The theatre is open for viewing as well as small productions.
Wonderful accommodations can be found in this city, from 500 year old buildings to new and very modern hotels with all amenities. The Parador San Javier Hotel is a charming older structure that was once a graceful old mansion. Located a few blocks from the center of town, it offers comfortable suites and exquisite gardens. Fine antiques, colonial art, colorful tilework and hardwood floors lend an air of grace and history.
Visually, this city is a fantastic blend of architecture and natural, rugged beauty. The homes cluster in fantastic varying colors, clinging to the hillsides above the city. I stayed for 3 days, enchanted. I walked a lot, up hills, through neighborhoods, into the surrounding area above and looking back in amazement. The taxis are plentiful and reasonable and friendly. This is a tourist town primarily for Mexican tourists. I did not find the tourist trappings so evident in the more commonly traveled areas. The mood is intellectual and inviting. Yes, I would happily fly off for a restful and enjoyable visit, anytime.
If you've never visited Mexico or have only traveled to the resort towns on the coast, you owe it to yourself to discover the other side of Mexico. The spirit of the people, especially away from the heavily touristed areas, is warm and welcoming. The history, so evident in every piece of art and architecture, is colorful and fascinating.
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